In this blog, I’ll show you how I transformed a plain wall into a stunning DIY board and batten feature and how you can do the same.
This project is perfect if you’ve been looking for an easy, budget-friendly way to add character to your space. I’ll walk you through the step-by-step process, share my tips, and help you avoid common mistakes.
By the end, you’ll be ready to tackle your board and batten the wall with confidence.
Let’s dive in!
Why did I Choose a Board and Batten Wall?
I wanted to give my space a cozy, high-end look without breaking the bank. After considering wallpaper, paint, and other decorative options, I settled on board and batten because:
- It adds depth and character to an otherwise plain wall.
- It’s a classic design that never goes out of style.
- It can be customized to fit any room and style preference.
And honestly? It was a fun project that made me feel like a pro with a nail gun
Tools & Materials Required
Before we jump into the steps, here’s a full list of everything I used to make my board and batten wall come to life:
Tools
- Miter Saw (or Circular Saw)
- Brad Nailer (with 1 1/4” brad nails)
- Level
- Tape Measure
- Speed Square
- Utility Knife
- Pry Bar
- Wood Filler
- Putty Knife
- Sandpaper (320 grit)
- Paintable Caulk & Caulk Gun
- Primer & Paint
- Painters Tape
Lumber List
- (2) 1” x 4” x 8′ (Baseboard trim)
- (6) 1” x 3” x 8′ (Vertical battens & top trim)
- (1) 1” x 2” x 8′ (Ledge piece)
- (3) 4′ x 8′ Hardboard Panels (For covering textured walls)
Note: These are my custom measurements—adjust based on your wall size.
Step-by-Step Installing Board and Batten Wall
Step 1: Planning & Measuring
Before picking up any tools, I sketched out my design and decided on my spacing. My wall is 10 feet wide, and I wanted evenly spaced battens. After playing around with numbers, I landed on spacings 18 inches apart, which gave me a balanced look.
Pro Tip:
Take into account any electrical outlets or switches when planning your board placement! You don’t want a batten running directly through one.
Step 2: Prepping the Wall
I removed my existing baseboard using a utility knife to cut through the caulk and a pry bar to gently detach it from the wall. If your existing baseboard is thick enough to work with the battens, you can keep it—but I opted for a fresh 1” x 4” baseboard for a seamless look.
Since my walls had some texture, I decided to use 1/8” hardboard panels to create a smooth surface before attaching the battens. This step is optional, but it gives a much cleaner final result.
Step 3: Cutting & Installing the Hardboard
I had my 4′ x 8′ hardboard panels cut down at the store to make them easier to handle. To attach them to the wall, I applied liquid nails and secured them using my brad nailer.
For outlets and light switches, I measured the placement, marked it on the board, and cut out the openings using a jigsaw.
Step 4: Installing the Baseboard & Top Rail
I cut my 1” x 4” baseboard to 120 inches (10 feet) and secured it to the wall using my brad nailer. Next, I installed the 1” x 3” top trim at a height of 58 inches from the floor, ensuring everything was level.
Step 5: Cutting & Installing Vertical Battens
Now for the fun part! I measured from the top trim to the baseboard and cut my 1” x 3” battens to size. Since walls are rarely perfectly straight, I measured each section separately rather than assuming they’d all be the same.
Once the battens were cut, I attached them using liquid nails and my brad nailer, checking with a level to ensure they were straight.
I spaced my battens 18 inches apart, but you can adjust the spacing to fit your style.
Step 6: Installing the Ledge
To complete the board and batten look, I added a 1” x 2” ledge on top of the horizontal trim, securing it with liquid nails and brad nails. This small detail made a big difference in making the design feel finished.
Step 7: Filling Nail Holes & Sanding
I filled all nail holes and seams with wood filler and let it dry for about 30 minutes. Then, I lightly sanded everything with 320-grit sandpaper for a smooth finish.
Step 8: Caulking the Seams
For that polished, professional look, I caulked all the seams using paintable caulk. This step makes the biggest difference in making your board and batten wall look like a built-in feature.
Step 9: Priming & Painting
I used Behr’s Creek Bend in a satin finish, applying one coat of primer and two coats of paint with a brush and roller.
Pro Tip:
If you’re painting a dark color, consider tinting your primer to match your paint for better coverage.
Final Reveal & Thoughts
After all that hard work, I stood back and admired the transformation. This DIY board and batten wall added so much character to my space, and I couldn’t be happier with how it turned out.
Final Cost Breakdown:
- Lumber: $90
- Hardboard Panels: $24
- Paint & Supplies: $30
- Caulk & Adhesive: $12
- Total Cost: ~$156
That’s a huge impact for under $200.
Conclusion
If you’re on the fence about adding a board and batten accent wall, I say go for it! It’s a beginner-friendly project that adds instant charm to any room. Plus, it’s completely customizable—you can choose different batten spacings, add a picture ledge, or even extend it to the ceiling for a grander look.
So, what do you think? Are you ready to tackle this project in your home? Let me know in the comments—I’d love to hear about your DIY adventures!
FAQs
What if my walls are textured?
No problem! You can either skim-coat them with joint compound or attach smooth hardboard panels before installing the battens. I went with a hardboard, and it worked like a charm.
Can I do this without a nail gun?
Yep! A hammer and finishing nails work too—just a bit more effort. If you love DIY, investing in a brad nailer will save you time (and frustration!).
How do I work around outlets and switches?
Measure and notch out the board with a jigsaw so it fits neatly around them. If your boards are thick, grab an outlet extender to keep everything flush.
Do I need to sand the boards before painting?
If you’re using MDF or pre-primed wood, a light sanding will do. But if you’re using raw wood, sanding is a must—especially for smoother paint application.
Can I use peel-and-stick battens instead of wood?
Yes! If you’re in a rental or want a temporary option, there are peel-and-stick batten kits available. Just know they won’t have the same depth or durability as real wood.
