Neon and LED-neon pieces are some of the most striking, space-enhancing artworks you can add to a room. The only issue is, most require anchoring with screws. And if you rent, or have plaster or tile you don’t want to damage, drilling is probably off the table.
Well, we have great news: there are plenty of lightweight LED neon pieces out there, and there are proven, renter-safe ways to mount them without leaving holes. Here they are!
First, Plan Your Layout
Start by treating the wall like a stage. Meaning, plan where everything will go before you start sticking anything to the wall.
Lay the sign on the floor, take a photo from the angle where it will hang, then mark those points on the wall with low-tack painter’s tape. Don’t skip this step because it will save you from repeated re-mounting attempts. Plus, it will keep adhesive surfaces working as intended.
Check Weight And Surface Compatibility
All adhesive products have limits. For example, Command picture-hanging strips have weight ratings per strip and they offer specific guidance on how many strips to use for heavier items. So, if you plan on using them, it’s best to follow their instructions exactly.
Now, if you have textured drywall, painted plaster, rough brick, or tile, understand that the adhesive will behave differently. Some won’t grip porous or uneven surfaces reliably so test if you have no choice but to work with such surfaces.
Choose The Right Sign To Start With
If you plan no-drill mounting, make sure you choose lightweight LED neon flex signs and/or smaller custom pieces. Many makers offer thin, lightweight panels and mounting options designed for home installs, which pair better with adhesive methods than old-school glass neon.
Radikal Neon’s custom LED signs fall into this category so you might want to check them out. But regardless of the brand, you want to look for signs that list weight, mounting method, and transformer specs so you’re safe (rather than sorry).
Renter-Safe Mounting Methods
- Command picture strips and velcro-style strips: Use only on smooth, clean drywall or painted surfaces. Press firmly, wait the recommended cure time (usually an hour or more but double-check), then attach the sign. To distribute weight well, use multiple strips spaced across the sign’s mounting points.
- Adhesive mounting brackets and double-sided foam tape: These work best for small LED neon pieces or light flex strips. Go for strong, good-quality tape that can handle the total weight of your sign and the room’s temperature changes.
- Cable clips and cord covers: If the cord is what’s bothering you, run it neatly along grout lines or baseboards using slim cable clips. Clear adhesive ones are cheap, easy to remove, and make the setup look cleaner.
- Suction mounts (glass only): If you have a window or glass partition, heavy-duty suction cups can work, but definitely test before relying on them for anything you care about.
- Magnetic mounts or freestanding displays: For metal walls, shelving, or displays, magnets or even a shelf you can lean the sign against let you show it off without touching the wall.
Surface-Specific Tips For Drywall, Tile, Brick
- Drywall: This is the best candidate for adhesive strips. Still, clean the surface with isopropyl alcohol first. Use multiple strips and heed the cure time. Now, if the sign is heavier than the strips’ combined rating, you should use wall anchors. That means drilling, of course, so it’s best to pick a lightweight piece.
- Tile: Some adhesives can work on smooth glazed tile if cleaned thoroughly, Command being one of them. However, textured or porous tile is a no-go. Consider silicone adhesive mounts rated for ceramic if you need a semi-permanent solution (do test first, though).
- Brick or rough masonry: Adhesives will struggle here. For anything beyond a few ounces (so very small LED word signs), drilling into mortar or using masonry anchors is the reliable choice. If this is an absolute no-no, use a freestanding frame or lean the piece on a shelf. It’s the safest choice.
Hide The Cords (And Keep Them Safe)
Most LED neon runs on low-voltage power supplies (12-24V DC), but the wall adapter will be mains powered. Just keep the power box off the floor, don’t overload a power strip, and make sure it’s not covered by fabric or tucked somewhere it can overheat.
It’s best to follow manufacturer wiring instructions and, when in doubt, treat the sign like any other plug-in appliance: use a grounded outlet and avoid extension cables rated below the sign’s amperage. UL standards and sign manufacturers emphasize correct power supplies for safety.
Troubleshooting And Clean Removal
If an adhesive leaves residue, don’t worry, you can still remove it. The key is to be gentle and take it slow: apply heat with a hair dryer (softens the adhesive) first, then peel slowly. Make sure to use adhesive remover products sparingly and clean the area afterwards.
For Command strips specifically, stretching the tab straight down should release the bond without paint damage. To be safe, follow the brand’s removal instructions to the letter.
What to do if the paint does lift? Repair the patch with a small dab of matching paint and a fine brush. Unfortunately, this can sometimes happen no matter how careful you are, but it’s not the end of the world: just a bit of paint does wonders.
